Hoi An, Vietnam– a Journey of Flavor and Humanity

By Evan Glassman

A place where the motorbikes outnumber the people and every meal is a testament to the culinary artistry of a nation.

My recent journey through this country was an immersive dive into the authentic and often untold stories that lie beneath its vibrant surface.

Arrival

I was staring at the ceiling. Jet lagged. Drenched in sweat. So tired from traveling for 22 hours, yet eager to get up and walk around. To explore this part of the world I’ve been dreaming of since childhood.

After seeing Anthony Bourdain eat and drink his weight in pho and beer on the plane ride over, I too wanted to sit in one of those tiny plastic chairs and mingle with locals I’ve only just met.

And so I did that. I decided to leave my hostel which was crammed with beds, stinky backpackers, and an AC that seemed to be on its last legs. I stepped outside and was hit in the face with a cacophony of smells, both good and bad.

The sweet, fragrant scent of cilantro mingled with the pungent aroma of motorbike exhaust and the occasional waft of something unidentifiable yet oddly compelling.

The streets of Hoi An were alive, teeming with a chaotic energy that buzzed under the midnight moon.

Lanterns

After becoming acquainted with the new air I was to breathe for the next month, I came to my senses and was awestruck. Hoi An has been registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, and I could see why.

Thousands of lanterns hung like vibrant stars, casting their warm glow over the cobblestone streets and transforming the city into a magical maze.

It was a breathtaking sight, and it was guiding me through alleyways and storefronts that seemed plucked from another era.

First meal I decided on a bowl of pho, and it’s exactly what I
expected. Cheap, flavorful, and unapologetically simple. The broth was a symphony of deep, complex flavors, simmered for hours, with hints of star anise and cinnamon.

The tender slices of beef practically dissolved on my tongue, while the fresh herbs and bean sprouts added a crisp contrast. And I paid $1.82 for it. I knew I’d love this place.

Culture Shock

The following days consisted of a lot of walking, with my camera as a constant companion. I had anticipated some form of culture shock, but nothing could have prepared me for what I encountered.

I expected the unexpected, yet the reality surpassed my imagination. The streets were alive with scenes that seemed almost surreal.

Families of four riding on a single scooter, or people hauling refrigerators, dozens of chicken cages, or like the gentleman I saw transporting what seemed like a hundred balloons, their bright colors bobbing above him as he wove through traffic.

The daily market was a whirlwind of sensory overload. Vendors shouted over each other, their voices blending into a chaotic symphony. The air was thick with the scent of spices, fish, and fresh produce.

I watched as locals bartered (and shouted) with each other, their negotiation techniques as lively and colorful as the goods they sold.

Tailor Capital of the World

If you under-packed for your trip, you’re in luck. If you didn’t, you’re going to wish you did, like me. Hoi An, often hailed as the tailor capital of the world, is a place where custom-made clothing is not just a luxury but a way of life.

You’ll be dazzled by the array of tailor shops, each one displaying a kaleidoscope of fabrics in every hue imaginable. From silk dresses to denim jeans, the options are endless. The art of tailoring here is taken seriously, with decades-old techniques passed down.

You can have anything made – from three-piece suits to intricate dresses– often within 24 hours.

As I watched the tailors work their magic, I marveled at their skill. The whole experience was a blend of artistry and craftsmanship that left me with regrets for my lack of foresight. The next time I find myself in Hoi An, I’ll be sure to leave ample room in my suitcase for a few bespoke pieces that are a fraction of the price than if I were to get them done back home.

Banh Mi

No matter where you are in Vietnam, a banh mi sandwich is going to be within arm’s reach. If you’re unaware of this delectable treat, it’s a traditional Vietnamese sandwich that encapsulates a perfect blend of flavors and textures.

Imagine this: a crusty, toasted baguette – soft and pillowy on the inside, with a satisfying crunch on the outside– stuffed with layers of (often processed) pork, crisp vegetables, and tangy sauces.

It’s the epitome of Vietnamese street food, capturing the essence of their cuisine in a single, handheld delight.

All over Vietnam, you’ll see French influence everywhere– embedded in the architecture, the bakeries, the cafés—but the most lasting and delicious mark they left behind is the baguette.

A product of colonial history, it has been adapted into a uniquely Vietnamese creation that perfectly complements the vibrant flavors of local ingredients.

In Hoi An, banh mi stands are as common as motorbikes, each vendor offering their own twist on this beloved sandwich. But my favorite has to be Madame Banh Mi. Her shop has become legendary among locals and travelers alike.

So busy and successful was the first location, she had to open a second one just across the street to keep up with demand. The lines out the door are a testament to the sandwich’s popularity, but trust me – the wait is worth it.

If you find yourself in Hoi An, don’t miss out on the opportunity to savor a banh mi from Madame Banh Mi. It’s not just a meal; it’s a flavorful journey through the heart of Vietnamese street food culture.

The Hoai River

It doesn’t take a lot of exploring in Hoi An to notice there’s a river running through it. It’s called the Hoai River, and played a crucial role in the city’s development from the 15th-19th century as a bustling trading port in central Vietnam.

By day, the river is a hive of activity. Boats ferrying goods and people back and forth, as vendors line the banks selling everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts.

But it’s as the sun dips below the horizon is when the river reveals its true magic. The town undergoes a transformation. The streets begin to quiet down, but the energy doesn’t dissipate – it simply shifts to the banks of the Hoai River.

Here, under the cover of dusk, Hoi An reveals a softer, more romantic side, one best experienced from the vantage point of a gently swaying boat.

You can take a boat ride from one of the hundreds of boats parked alongside the bank. From here, you get unobstructed view of the town’s ancient architecture and a reflection of the lanterns hung up all around the river and walkways.

The Heartbeats of Hoi An

It’s easy to fall in love with a place for its beauty, its history, or even its food, but it’s the people who make a destination unforgettable.

Every interaction I had was a reminder of the kindness and generosity that runs deep in Vietnamese culture. They welcomed me – a stranger – with open arms, eager to share their food and their way of life.

The people of Hoi An are hardworking, their days filled with tasks that might seem mundane Hoai River at night time Hoi An locals posing for a photo to some but are vital to the rhythm of the town.

Yet, despite the demands of their daily lives, there’s an unspoken sense of community that binds them together. They are what makes Hoi An more than just a beautiful destination – they are the true heartbeats of this city

Evan Glassman is a Los Angeles-based photographer and writer with a passion for documenting the world through his lens. With five years of experience in freelance photography, Evan specializes in documentary-style street photography, capturing candid moments and the essence of the places he visits. He recently completed a three-month backpacking trip across Asia, where he immersed himself in local cultures, food, and landscapes. Evan holds an MBA with a focus on marketing, and he has a deep appreciation for visual storytelling.