By Paul Shoul
Senior Writer

It was early spring as we drove through the main intersection of Lawrence, Kansas. We banged a right onto Massachusetts Street, named by the abolitionist “New England Emigrant Aid Society” in 1854.

I learned how to drive on the original Mass Ave, near my home in Boston. We drove much faster and were wicked less polite, but I felt more copacetic with Kansas.

Free state advocates from Massachusetts sent immigrants to Lawrence to tip the voting scales when Kansas decided whether to enter the union as a non-slavery state in 1861.

In 1863, Proslavery partisans organized by William Quantril with the likes of a young Jesse James from Missouri raided the city, burning 180 buildings and murdering 182 men and boys on these very streets. The Lawrence Massacre was a seminal moment of Bleeding Kansas” that evolved into the Civil War.

These days, Lawrence is a charming college town that blends the traditional and new, similar to my home in Northampton, MA. With students come coffee shops, eclectic boutiques, cool international restaurants, music, breweries, antique and clothing stores, quirky ideas, and a smattering of old hippies. Someone described it as a “blue dot in an otherwise red state.”

Here are a few tips on what to do, where to stay, and what to eat in Norththeast Kansas.

If you have ever felt like you’ve lost your marbles, find them again at the Moon Marble Company in Bonner Springs, just a 20-minute drive from Lawrence. Owner Bruce Breslow has gathered thousands of quirky toys, keepsakes, board games, and, of course, the largest selection of marbles I have ever encountered. It’s like Charlie’s Chocolate Factory of cool, wacky stuff.

Bruce is a skilled glassmaker who gives daily demonstrations. The process is fascinating; each handmade marble is unique.

Remember to make a pit stop in the bathroom museum.

The Circle S Ranch has been in the same family for six generations. Cattle roam 500 acres of pasture land, and it has also evolved into a luxury country inn, wedding, and event venue.

I stayed the night in the main house with charming rooms and stunning views.

My favorite part of Circle S was driving in a small four-wheeler to the back pastures to feed longhorn cattle. They are huge, weighing up to 1,800 pounds, and have horns that can spread over 8 feet! Crowding around the vehicle, miraculously, they did not stab each other or us.

Lawrence eats

For lunch, I checked out the Mad Greek. It’s an old-school restaurant with classic, very fresh Greek specialties. They have super good salads, and you must try the flaming cheese.

Dinner was at Culinaria. “Featuring  made-from-scratch, Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, thoughtfully curated wines, and classic & craft cocktails.”

Culinaria lived up to its aspirations. It served Fresh Mediterranean dishes, some with a Kansas twist. I never would have thought of pairing fried chicken and hummus, but they did, and it works beautifully.

The restaurant has a hip, relaxed atmosphere, and although its craft cocktails looked fantastic, I was surprised that they stocked my favorite rum on the planet, Flor de Cana from Nicaragua. It was another “not what I expected to find in Kansas” moment.

Topeka Capitol Building Tour

The Kansas State Capitol building is a testament to the state’s rich heritage and political significance. Guided tours through historic architecture, exhibits, and displays provide insight into the state’s legislative process, showcasing artifacts and documents that reflect pivotal moments in Kansas’s history.

If you accept the challenge, the highlight is ascending 296 steps to the top of the Capitol dome on winding metal stairs. The journey up is a fascinating look at how it was constructed, and the view from the top of the city is beautiful.

A small warning; about two-thirds of our group turned back down at the halfway mark. It’s a long way up, and it’s best not to look down. I ascended steadily and slowly, unlike our guide, who, although in his mid-60s,  bounded up the stairs like a mountain goat.  He said, “I make this climb 3 times a day; it saves me a bunch of money on gym memberships”.

The Board of Education National Historical Park at the historic Monroe Elementary School is a journey into America’s turbulent fight for equality. Exhibits vividly recount the 1954 Supreme Court decision dismantling racial segregation in public schools. These are the very classrooms where history happened. This is a must-visit. Leave a few hours to visit this educational and moving place.

Barbecue, Tacos, and Wine, oh my!

When you think about Kansas cuisine,  if the only images conjured are that of barbecue and beer, think again. Not to say that I did not have the best damn barbecue that I have ever had in America, but there is so much more.

There are over 100 barbecue joints in Kansas City. It’s like a religion with many different churches all worshiping the same god of meat. Most offer dry-rubbed ribs, brisket, burnt-ends,  chicken, sausage, turkey, and sandwiches. The small subtleties of the sweet sauce, the wood they use, how long they cook, and the variety of the sides make each unique.

Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que ( in a gas station)   was established in 1996 and brought to global fame by the late great Anthony Bourdain, who said, “It’s the best barbecue in Kansas City, which makes it the best barbecue in the world.”  The place was packed, and the BBQ was fantastic.

The brisket was tender and juicy, ribs fell off the bones, and the burnt ends ( fatty pieces cut from the brisket point and cut into squares ) were like little meat pillows. The signature Z-man sandwich is a must-munch.

Slaps BBQ may be a little less polished on the outside, but it’s the meat that matters. On that particular day, I thought their brisket was juicier, the burnt ends a little softer, and I loved the mac and cheese. Either place will deliver you to a smoky nirvana.

Traversing the taco trail is different from what I expected to be doing in Kansas City, but there is a reason Forbes magazine called it “The Taco Capital of the United States in 2021. 25% of Kansas City is Latino.

They have brought a tradition of tacos that extends to over fifty taquerias, restaurants, and corner markets that rival anywhere I have eaten in Central and South America.

Saltwell Farm Kitchen

Located on an old farm in the rural town of Overbrook, about 20 minutes from Lawrence or Topeka, Saltwell Farm Kitchen was another unexpected find in Kansas. That Chef Rozz Petrozz is a James Beard semifinalist gives a hint of the quality of the farm-to-table food they offer.

A  6-course tasting menu is served outside at tables scattered amongst a grove of trees surrounded by farm fields.

The cocktails were a little too good… Every plate at our table was licked clean after each course, and the eclectic mix of other dinners from all walks of life made for a fantastic dining experience. Highly recommended.

Miami County is Wine Country

Great wine in Kansas? You betcha. There are over 20 wineries, and they are growing. Before prohibition, Kansas was one of the largest grape-growing areas in the country.

Brendan Lawler, manager of NightHawk Vineyard and Winery. showed me around her delightful vineyards and tasting room. Their Vignoles Dry white table wine is fantastic. Super dry, with notes of limestone-rich soils, it is the perfect companion for the famous Kansas barbecue.

My final night in Kansas was spent at Isinglass Estate on over  600 acres in southern Miami County. The Estate includes six lodgings, 35 acres of vineyards, a polo field, and a restaurant.

Glamping in one of their three covered wagons, complete with a bathroom, air conditioning, a refrigerator, and satellite TV, was a fitting way to end an extraordinary journey through  Norththeast Kansas.

For further information on traveling to Kansas go to: https://www.travelks.com/