The far east end, the North Fork of crowded Long Island is a path worth taking
By Stephanie Vermillion
WHERE
The North Fork of Long Island, 90 miles east of Manhattan, directly north of the Hamptons.
WHY GO
To experience a friendly, small-town community that offers unique local businesses, family-run wineries, and a refreshingly friendly vibe. The North Fork is located along the Long Island Sound, and has a quiet, shell-filled beach along its northern coastline.
WHEN TO GO
Late March through May, early enough to miss the throngs of tourists and tour buses that overcrowd the towns, and late enough for the shops and restaurants to open for the season.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
By Car
Car is one of the easiest ways to get to the North Fork. From Manhattan, you’ll pass through the Bronx and Queens before taking I-495E/ Long Island Expressway the entire way.
By Train
The Long Island Railroad offers daily service between New York Penn Station and Greenport Station in the heart of the North Fork.
By Ferry
The Cross Sound Ferry provides trips between New London, Connecticut and Orient Point in the North Fork multiple times per day.
By Bus
The Hampton Jitney bus takes passengers from Manhattan to the North Fork, making multiple stops along the way. The Jitney has stops near JFK, La Guardia and the L.I. MacArthur Airports, making it easy for out-of-towners to take a North Fork trip.
Getting Around
The North Fork is rather spread out, with the majority of vineyards about 18 to 20 miles from the main town, Greenport. Car is the easiest way to get from spot to spot. Those without a car can use taxi service Hometown Taxi, chauffeur service Main Street Drivers or the Suffolk County Transit Bus, which travels between the North Fork’s major towns.
BEST MAJOR ATTRACTION
With more than 40 wineries within 20 miles of each other, the North Fork’s largest draw is, of course, its wine. Each and every North Fork winery has a story behind it, whether it’s a vineyard passed down through generations,
a solar-powered winery that incorporates holistic farming or a woman who’s paying tribute to her Italian roots by running a fully operational vineyard, almost entirely on her own.
Some unique wineries that are a bit off the beaten (tour bus) path include:
Paumanok Vineyards
This multi-generational wine business started in 1983, when Ursula and Charles Massoud purchased what was once a potato farm, and transformed it into a world-class winery. Today, the 127-acre vineyard is still in the family, run by Nabil, Salim and Kareem Massoud, who have a number of awards under their belts, including Edible Long Island’s Winery of the Year in 2015.
Shinn Estate Vineyards
Known for their iconic Manhattan restaurant Home, one of the first farm-to-table dining spots on the East Coast, Barbara Shinn and David Page now own and operate a successful estate vineyard on the North Fork. Shinn Estate Vineyards uses sustainable, holistic farming practices, allowing each wine to “do its thing”, resulting in unique, additive-free flavors you can’t get anywhere else.
One Woman Wines and Vineyards
As a child, Claudia Purita worked on her family’s farm, growing vegetables and wine grapes in the seaside town of Calabria, Italy. Fast forward to the present, and Claudia is celebrating — and, thankfully, sharing — her Italian wine roots through the hobby-turned-business, One Woman Wines and Vineyards.
The tasting room is housed in a toolshed dating back to the vineyard’s potato farm days, and fits no more than 10, max 15 people, giving the sampling experience a quaint, personal touch.
BEST UNUSUAL ATTRACTION
Southold Town Beach
Located along the Long Island Sound, the Southold Town Beach is significantly quieter than the beaches you’d find down in the Hamptons. The beach itself is more stone than sand, filled with unusual, colorful shells and flocks of squawking seagulls.
The Southold Town Beach is located on County Road 48, in between Carole and Beverly Roads.
BEST ACTIVITY AND TOUR
What tastes better than fresh Long Island oysters? Fresh Long Island oysters you can shuck yourself. At Little Creek Oyster Farm in Greenport, patrons learn the ins and outs of oyster shucking over a glass of local craft beer. Other food options, including a tasty chowder, are also offered.
For a deeper dive into the North Fork’s food culture, try the North Fork Foodie Tour. Hosted by the North Fork Reform Synagogue, the annual Foodie tour introduces participants to dozens of local farmers and quintessential Long Island foods, including scallops, duck, strawberries, potatoes and wine. The annual tour takes place in the fall.
BEST ALTERNATIVE
For a different perspective, enjoy the beautiful North Fork region from the comfort of a kayak. Eagle’s Neck Paddling Company located in Southold offers kayak tours and rentals, along with stand up paddle boarding lessons and rentals, and bike rentals for those who prefer dry land.
BEST LOCAL HAUNT
First and South is much more than a restaurant in Greenport. Part dining, part socializing, First and South is a gathering ground that brings together locals and visitors alike for fun, friendly conversation and fresh local fare.
Sarah Phillips, the owner of First and South, makes sure every patron feels welcome, and given the restaurant’s dog-friendly policy, it’s easy to see why North Fork residents and out-of-towners keep coming back.
BEST LODGINGS
While pricey, Shorecrest Bed and Breakfast in Southold offers a number of valuable amenities, including private beach access, a jacuzzi bath tub and a traditional home-cooked breakfast.
For those looking to save on lodging, Airbnb and VRBO are options, but the North Fork’s current rules (as of early 2016) state that a minimum rental must be at least two weeks.
The Arborview House offers a comfortable and affordable B&B experience in the North Fork as well.
BEST EATS
In Mattituck, the Goodfood cafe offers homemade, healthy dishes, including empanadas, salads, soups, sandwiches and desserts.
The North Fork is filled with Greek influence, which means its food selection is top-notch. For a taste of traditional Greek food, try the Hellenic Snack Bar and Restaurant in East Marion, or check out Agora, a Greek market with pastries, cheeses, olives and snacks in Mattituck.
Noah’s in Greenport is also a popular spot for seafood, sliders, salads and desserts. Chef Noah has received numerous awards for his small plate offerings, including Best Chefs in America in 2012 and 2013.
BEST ENTERTAINMENT
Greenport Harbor Brewing Company is known for its delicious variety of beers as well as its fun lineup of live music. Beer enthusiasts should
also check out the North Fork Craft Beer Festival, which takes place in summer (typically August) every year.
For movie lovers, the Village Cinema is a historical venue in downtown Greenport, showing top-notch movies in a throwback-theater environment.
BEST SHOPPING
Kessie, located in Greenport, sells a mix of cute, trendy women’s clothes, unusual jewelry and vintage home decor. Burton’s Bookstore, located just down the street from Kessie, offers a variety of fiction, nonfiction, children’s stories and stationery, along with books from North Fork’s own authors.
For edible souvenirs, try the North Fork Chocolate Company, located in Aquebogue. Tasty offerings range from barks and bars to cookies and truffles, with gift boxes and baskets available, too.
BEST RESOURCES
Go North Fork (www.gonorthfork.org)
LINKS
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Train
Getting Around
Hometown Taxi: (631) 765-5336
BEST MAJOR ATTRACTION
BEST UNUSUAL ATTRACTION
BEST ACTIVITY AND TOUR
Little Creek Oyster Farm: http://littlecreekoysters.com/
BEST ALTERNATIVE
Kayaking and paddleboarding
BEST LOCAL HAUNT
BEST LODGINGS
BEST EATS
Goodfood
Hellenic Snack Bar & Restaurant
BEST ENTERTAINMENT
Greenport Harbor Brewing Company
BEST SHOPPING
Burton’s Bookstore:
https://youtu.be/JJMJaokirF4
- New York: Long Island’s North Fork - May 29, 2016
